Huaraz and surroundings
I had planned to visit only two places in Peru, the rest was waiting for flow. Besides famous Machu Picchu, trekking in Cordilleras Blancas was on my list and visiting the Czech memorial there. I had not known too much about the Memorial’s story but Peta, the chairman of our climbing club, told me what happened there and why it is important to visit this place during my travels in Peru. In 1970 a large earthquake brought a big avalanche of snow and rocks. The entire expedition of Czech climbers camping below was buried under the brash and ice. Nearby this tragical place, there is a memorial, which I planned to visit.
So I took a night bus to Huaraz and met a Couchsurfing guy who provided a room for me. I explored the town a bit and then we explored the pubs and bars… The cheapest way to get easily drunk is to go to the local place that on first impression seems like a store with herbal products and drinks. Actually, that is very true. They sell special herbal teas. However, most of them are with a pretty strong spirit. And what is the best? It costs less than one dollar. Being drunk, we arranged a trip for me for the next day with him and his agency. I did not know where we were going but I knew it would be cool. So with a quite bad hangover and lack of sleep, I went with him and tens of other tourists to the mountains. For the first time in my life, I got to over 5.000 m above sea level and I still had some alcohol in my blood. But chewing coca leaves and drinking coca tea helped and I was able to do the little hike from the bus to the glacier. The path was full of tourists but Carlito and I took another one, which is not open to the public, only guides know it and are allowed to go there. So we went, reached the edge of the glacier, and stayed several minutes at almost 5.200 m. It was amazing, but pretty sad because a few years ago this place was still part of the glacier and nowadays thanks to global warming it is melting every day and we are losing it every second, more and more.
However, my plan and goal were not only to visit this beautiful glacier but to experience many days hiking in the Cordillera Blanca - Santa Cruz trek on my own. So I refused Carlito’s offer to be my companion in the mountains, but I accepted his help with renting equipment like a tent and gas cooker. Unfortunately, I could not stay in his place anymore because his roommate rented the second room to other people. What was amazing in this situation was that he did not let me go to a hostel but asked his friends to give me a room. So, late in the night I ended up in a student’s house, I was sharing the room with a young Peruvian student but got a hot shower and a mat on the floor. I found out how kind these people are. He told me he is going to his village for a few weeks and I can stay for as long I want to. I could see his kindness and trustfulness when he lent me money for shopping and said to me to return it after I come back from the mountains. Such nice energy of these people.
So in the morning I woke up and went for a bus. It took me time with my basic Spanish to find the right place and right stop but I was able to go to Yungay where I took the bus into the middle of the national park to see the Czech memorial. I met two fellow countrymen there, doing a tour with the agency. What a magic place it is. I picked some flowers and put them and the headband from our climbing club (HKNMPSM) on the memorial. It is such a quiet and peaceful place. I sat down and meditated and then all of a sudden I saw something that got me goosebumps around the entire body. Maybe it was only my imagination but I saw a foggy cloud maybe 5 metres in front of me. It stopped for a while and I felt like I am not alone here, some unknown energy was around me. I was stuck and looking at the cloud. I was maybe crazy but started talking to it as if to the dead climbers. I wished them and also myself peace and said a short prayer. And after this, the cloud carried on in its way. So that is how my trek started.
Before the Santa Cruz trek, I wanted to see the Laguna 69. Who, oh my gosh, gave the name to this lake? Laguna 69? Why? The most interesting name for the lake. There is one path to the lake and I did not want to hike the same way up and down. So my favourite app mapy.cz showed me that there was supposed to be a path between the Pisco base camp and the lake. So sorted. I started hiking towards the base camp with a plan to reach the lake in the evening and camp there. I remember like it was now, how I was hiking with my monkey mind running everywhere when I looked on the left side and I saw a face on one of the mountains nearby. The eyes were big and I felt they were watching me. Now I know why indigenous people believe in the spirit of the mountains. Around about 2 pm it started getting dark and the storm was coming. I was fully decided to hike up the Pisco base camp and continue over the ridge to the Laguna 69. I reached the pass and found a hut, which was locked, only one door opened so in the case of emergency I could stay there overnight. But I felt a bit uncomfortable there so I went out. Looking for the way but couldn't find any. There was only a rocky field with no clear path marked by little rocky men. Anyway, I wanted to reach the lake so I followed the track. After maybe ten minutes of walking, the storm was closer and closer to me. It was drizzling, the rocks became slippery, and due to the gloom it was very hard to see the marks. Suddenly I found myself on the edge of the cliff above the beautiful azure lake. But this lake was not my target, I still had many kilometres ahead. The lightning and thunder were everywhere around me. During every thunderbolt, I did squat down to the ground, how I was scared! I felt that my name could be the next one on the memorial and I knew it would be too soon for me, so I came to my senses and turned back and ran off down the hill. So, in the end, I did what I was about to avoid. I didn't want to hike up and down the same path to the marvellous lake, so that is why I decided to go through the Pisco base camp. But my plan was changed. And I hiked up and down the pass the same way and next day I hiked up and down the Laguna 69 also the same way.
Enjoy the adventure!